Stay Signed In
Do you want to access your site more quickly on this computer? Check this box, and your username and password will be remembered for two weeks. Click logout to turn this off.
Stay Safe
Do not check this box if you are using a public computer. You don't want anyone seeing your personal info or messing with your site.
There are two ways to do this. The first is to buy direct replacement LED's for the cluster. The second is to insert the wires of the LED's you want to use into the bulb holder on you cluster. If you plan to add additional LED's like I have done, you will have to do the latter to power these. (be sure that the LED's you are using are able to accept a 12-volt power source.)
Placement and Color are personal preference. Just power up the LED and move it around until the desired light is achieved. The use of sunshades or a garage will be helpful to see what the effect of the LED's will have at night.
LED Brake Lights
Fix for when your center brake light works, but main brake lights dont. These cars have faulty turnsignal swiches. The main brake lights are routed thru the turnsignals. That is why the turnsignals can still blink when you got your brake lights on.
You have two main options to fix this.
1) Replace the turnsignal switch. Switch costs about 70-100 I believe if you have crusecontrol. About a $150-200 job at a local shop.
2) Rewire brake lights and relocate your turnsignals.
First: Find the lead for the center brakelight/spoiler light.
It is a white wire that connects to the center brake light bulb. I used a relay to power the brake lights, but you should beable to run all three off the center light alone. If you have a lit spoiler, i would just remove the center light anyway and just stay with the light in the spoiler, and the mainbrake lights.
Now here is where it gets tricky. It all comes down to how creative you are: You can fab up some LED's, add new bulbs in the brake light housing, or do what i did.
I just added two pairs of LEDs. I got them at autozone. Each set has a pair of LED bars. Each bar has 6 LED's. They fit perfictly between the bumper and the brake lights. They are like $20-$30 a set.
Now the rest is just wiring. Each bulb in the brake light has three wires. one ground, one for headlights, and one for turn/brake lights. You will cut the one for t/b lights and attach it to the new light. Then just attach the brake light power (either direct from the centerlight, or from a relay) to both bulbs where you removed your t/b light wire.
Now test. If your wiring is good you now have funtional brake lights and turnsignal. and it looks pretty cool too.
Heated Seat with massage Installation.
Parts needed:
Homemedics heated/massaging chair cover. ($10-$20 at walmart)
Additional wire.
To start, cut open and remove the massage units and heating pad from the chair cover. Be careful not to cut or damage the wires inside the pad.
Once the heat unit and massagers are seperated from the pad, lenghten the primary power cable. Install an inline fuse of the same size as supplied in the cigarret lighter adapter that came with the pad.
Next you will need to begin to install the unit. To do this, unclip the seat cover for the seat back.
Reach up inside the seat back and cut a location for the massage motors. If motors are placed deep inside seat foam, they will be more effective beacuse they will shake the seat frame. Place motors and heat pad.
Next run the new power wire under the seat and thru the carpet to a power location of your choice. I ran the power wire to the switch panel in my ash try.
Once all wires are run and the system has been tested to work, clip the seat cover back on and you will be finished.
High beam with Low beam conversion.
This is how you can go about making your car have the low beams activate when you have high beams on.
Parts needed:
-30Amp Relay
-4 Wire clips to attach to relay
-2 Inline wire taps
-about 10' spool of wire between 16-12 gauge
-inline fuse holder with 20 amp fuse
-2 loop conectors
Basic Setup:
-Locate power that goes to High beam. Use this as the source/ triger for the relay. Use inline tap.
-Run power from battery, with inline fuse inplace, to the relay.
-Run ground for relay.
-Run Power from relay to the Positive wire on the Low beams.
Once all is hooked up, you are done! turn on your high beams and check the system.
***If you want to link your fog lamps and your high beam/low beams this is what you will need. Two relays and the same items for each install.
First relay: the trigger for the relay is comming from a pos interior light source (one that is on only when lights are on, like your interior instruments) on a switch. This relay is powering the fog lamps and a second relay for the Hi/Low conversion.
Second relay: The trigger is the high beams and the power input Power is coming from the first relay. The output for this second relay goes to the low beams. This way you can shut of the switch and turn off the low beams and fog lamps if you got the high beams and if you just have your low beams on you would be able to toggle your fogs.
_______________________________________________________________
High Beam Bulb in Low Beam Socket
Well it seems at first glance that GM/auto industry went out of their way to prevent us from putting/ swapping the high beam and low beam bulbs. this was either done for DOT stds, or so that idoits wouldnt put the wrong bulb in the wrong hole. .... but for the rest of us looking for more light, we want to put HI in our low.
so. here is what i figured out... there are two restictions preventing us from swaping bulbs. the first is the light fixture. the second is the power socket.
the fixture is very easy to change. GM in the Mass-production frenzy, use the same metal cutout for the high beam and low beam plate. just unscrew and flip it! i was planning on using my spare headlight, but there is no need. once flipped, you will only have 2 holes out of the three that line up. so you can either just stay with only 2 screws, or drill a new hole in the metal plate.
for the second restiction, the power socket is equiped with a backbone of plastic to go i the grove on the bulb. the low beams have one backbone and the high's have 2. you can either modify the bulb or the socket. you can modify the socket, by either dremalling it out, using wire snips, or getting new sockets.
after that, you will be down!!!!
Fog Lamp install
The level of difficulty of this project can vary. It depends on which way you want to wire your fog lamps. You have the options to have them trigger when your parking lights are on, when your head lights are on, when your high beams are on, or on a separate switch. Either triggering method you choose, the needed parts are the same.
You need:
-Fog lights
-Wire harness (this consists of)
/30 amp Relay
/Power lead (one from battery to relay and one from relay to each fog lamp)
/Ground wires (one from relay and one from each fog lamp to ground point)
/Trigger wire
/Inline fuse holder with 15 amp fuse
Basic Setup: Your relay is the heart of this project.
-Trigger lead from source to relay. (you can place a switch inline to give additonal control) This is where you can choose how you want your fog lamps to activate. All you need is a constant positive 12Volt power source.
-Power lead. 12 Volt constant power from battery. Place inline fuse between battery and relay.
-Relay ground. Ground wire from relay to neg battery terminal or ground to body
-Power lead to fog lamps. Run wire from relay to each fog lamp.
-Fog lamp ground. Run wire from each lamp to body ground or neg battery terminal.
