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Here are the tools you will need:
-Jack & 2 Jack Stands
-Lug Wrench / Impact gun / or Breaker Bar
-T60 Torx bit
-15mm Socket
-36mm Axle Socket
-Long Breaker bar
-Hammer
-Axel grease or bearing grease
-Liquid Wrench or other penetrating lube
Procedure:
-Remove lug cover or wheel to gain access to axle nut.
-Loosen axel nut, but do not completely remove. This is where the penetrating lube helps. Spray on and let sit for 20 min.
-Jack up car and support each side with jack stands. The idea is to have both front wheels off the ground, because you will need to turn steering wheel to gain access to the four bolts holding the hub on.
-Remove wheels
-Insert a screwdriver into the rotor vent at top of rotor to keep from rotating. Use the 36mm socket to remove the axel nut completely. Liquid wrench helps here.
-Turn Steering wheel count-clockwise, to gain access to the brake mounting bolts. Remove top and bottom bolts with the T60 torx bit with breaker bar. Once removed support with wire or coat hanger off of the spring above. Remove Rotor.
-Use the 15mm socket and breaker bar to remove the forward 2 bolts and then the rear 2 bolts on the hub. *The bolt heads are behind the shield, so the steering wheel needs to be turned to reach them. It will help to use the liquid wrench again on the four bolts. Once loose, straighten the wheels. Tap the axel bolt with hammer or mallot to separate.
-Take new Hub and apply bearing grease inside. Also apply grease to the axel itself. Pic of new and old Hub
-Installation is the reverse of removal. When attaching the hub leave the wheels centered while attaching to the axel. Start as many bolts as possible. Turn wheel to access each bolt to tighten. 90lbs of Tq is all you need for these. Then attach rotor and caliper. Use screwdriver again to put on axel nut. Put wheel on. Lower car and tighten axel nut to 160 lbs of Tq
***Same Procedure can be used to change front brakes and rotors
(only adjustment will be to use a C clamp to push the piston back in on the caliper and to greese the slider pins on the same.)
Rear Brake Install / Rotor Removal
Tools needed:
(See Pic)
Remove wheel.
Remove 12 mm bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket.
Remove pads. The pads pull out toward you for the front and away from you in the rear.
Now you need to compress the piston. The easiest way i found to do this so far is to mount the caliper on the wheel without the rotor on and use the cube looking tool to screw the piston on.
To remove the caliper, remove the two 3/4" bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Once removed the rotor will be able to slide right off the hub. If not loose just tap with hammer or blunt object.
Now reattach the caliper bolts the 2 3/4" and the 12mm and begin using the caliper tool to screw in the piston. While screwing in the piston, you need to open the bleed valve, it is a 10mm. It is wise to do this, because it will take less pressure to screw the piston in and there is debre in the brake system that you dont want to force into the other lines.
Note, i used a cheep line of hose and a bottel to catch the brake fluid so i didnt need to bleed the brakes. If there is a chance for air to enter the system, you will need to bleed the brakes. Once the piston is screwed in, the notch should line up on the bottom of the caliper. You may need to rotate the piston either direction to line it up. This notch mates up to the brake pads.
Now that the piston is retracted, you need to reinstall the rotor.
Install the new pads and and secure the 12mm bolt back and your done. Put the wheel on and test drive your car keeping in mind that it takes a few pumps of the brakes to get the piston to move out and take up the slack in the brakes.
